Olneyville's Mansion: Atlantic Mills

William Morgan, GoLocalProv Architectural Critic

Olneyville's Mansion: Atlantic Mills

Atlantic Delaine Mills

When people in Providence want to squire out-of-town visitors around, they promenade along Benefit Street, walk the green at Brown, or head to Newport to gawk at a Gilded Age mansion. Yet, if one really wanted to brag about a significant but unheralded aspect of our city's history, they should show off one of the great 19th-century mills, such as the Atlantic Delaine in Olneyville.

This mill complex is on Manton Avenue, an area that urban geographers used to euphemistically call the wrong side of the tracks. In short, Olneyville is pretty much a dump, especially when compared to the East Side. It is ironic, then, that had these magnificent examples of American industrial prowess been east of downtown they would have been allowed to decay or eventually been torn down. (American Screw Company on North Main Street, founded at the same time at Atlantic Delaine, was the largest factory its kind in the world, but it burned in the early 1970s–intentionally, one wonders.) Sometimes poverty can be a friend to historic preservation.

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If people know the Atlantic Delaine Mills it is because of their twin towers–topped by tall ribbed domes reminiscent of Baroque Rome–visible from Route 6. One dome's lantern has fallen, and I worry that those two gracious punctuation points on the skyline will not be there the next time I drive westward.

Atlantic Delaine Mills, east tower

Still, if you make the trip out Broadway, literally across the tracks, and make the effort to find Manton Avenue and Aleppo Street, there is a knock-your-socks-off collection of textile mill architecture spanning the Woonasquatucket River, along with accompanying worker housing, and even a gasometer. In its heyday, Atlantic Delaine had more buildings, lots of trees, and was not so scruffy. But you can still sense the drama and romance of the place.

Founded as a delaine (worsted) mill in the 1850s, it flourished in the Civil War, and manufacturing here expanded to the big mill you see today. The first half was built in 1863 and the second added in 1882, with some ancillary structures built up until the turn of the twentieth century. Although the original company folded during the Panic of 1873, the subsequent Atlantic Mills became the largest worsted and cotton mill in the city, employing more than 2,000 people. Some manufacturing of cotton was done here until after World War II. Echoing the decline of the textile industry in New England, these mills are shadows of themselves, hanging on by hosting such various less-than-uptown enterprises, as a used furniture store, warehousing, and the odd business and designer's studio.

Inglorious entrance to Atlantic Mills

 

The articulated vertical piers and abundant windows express the no-nonsense pier-and-spandrel construction, which allowed more floor space and more light in a pre-electrified age. But most unusual is the care taken on the pair of domed stair towers with their richly articulated windows, decorative brickwork, and recessed wall panels. Despite their quirky nod to Counter-Reformation Italian architecture, these towers are impressive manifestations of real corporate pride and power.

 

Tower Entrance
Part of the Atlantic Mills empire is worker housing that stretches out along Manton Avenue. At one time, there were almost three score of these company-built homes, but only a few survive, and, like most things in Olneyville, are barely hanging on.

 

Worker's Homes

 

            The earliest surviving and most intriguing building here is the gasometer, built in 1852 as part of the original Atlantic Delaine factory complex. This 50-foot-diameter round brick structure was an expandable container for flammable gas released by coal heating in the mills. Europeans have been rehabilitating their gasometers into high-end apartments, although this example awaits restoration as commercial or residential space. But even in its sad state and missing its dome, this functional piece speaks eloquently of Rhode Island's industrial mill aesthetic.

                                

Gasometer, Aleppo Street

 

There is a credible rumor that one of the Mill's owners, Manton Industries (appropriately, a lead and asbestos abatement company), plans to restore the western tower. If true, this would be welcome news. Mill buildings can be prohibitively expensive to rehabilitate, yet they are far better built and certainly handsomer than most new construction.

Piecemeal restoration is better than none, but we could dream about what would have happened had a landmark like Atlantic Delaine been taken over by a single corporate entity or one of our many universities. A restored Atlantic Mill building, for example, could have been Providence's premier academic address. Such a statement would make University Hall at Brown or the main building on Johnson & Wales' downtown campus look positively anemic by comparison.

 

Will Morgan is one of the nation’s top architectural critics.

Morgan is based in Providence, and has written on everything from license plate design to the Cape Cod cottage typology. He is the author of a dozen books, including The Abrams Guide to American House Styles (2004), and Monadnock Summer (2011) about Dublin, NH's architectural legacy, which was nominated for the Pulitzer Prize.

He has written for the New York Times, Architect Magazine, Antiques, Architectural Record, Architectural Review, Boston Globe, I.D., Christian Science Monitor, Design New England, Hartford Courant, New York Times, Providence Journal, St. Petersburg Times, and Smithsonian.

He has been a contributing editor at many of America’s top architectural publications. And, Morgan has taught at Brown, University of Louisville, and Princeton University to name a few.


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