Feast of the Seven Fishes on Federal Hill

Feast of the Seven Fishes on Federal Hill

For Rhode Islanders, La Vigilia, or the Feast of the Seven Fishes, often ends up being a marathon session at Nona's, suffering through sandy clams casino. So it came as great tidings when chef Domenic Ierfino of Providence's Trattoria Roma announced his updated version of the feast. I headed to Federal Hill to settle in for a holiday meal.

Course 1: Snail and Baccala Salads

I was delighted to discover that Chef Ierfino has grouped his fishes with consideration for course progression. Therefore, the first course featured these less-loved seafoods in ways anyone could adore. The thinly sliced snails combined with hot pepper rings and were dressed in a spicy vinegar sauce. The challenging baccala (salt cod) was a wonderful addition to a cold salad plate, with restrained saltiness and perfect chewy texture.

Course 2: Fried Calamari and Smelts

Both winners. The calamari had a delightful, flour-dusted breading that kept everything light, fresh and tasty. The smelts were my version of a fun, adult fish-stick. Served as full fish, these were perfectly sourced in terms of size and flavor. A zesty red sauce for dipping wasn't even necessary, as both fish were extremely flavorful in their own right.

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Course 3: Spaghetti Pescatore

This was practically a La Vigilia in a bowl! Four shellfish (shrimp, mussels, little necks and scallops) crowned a heaping serving of spaghetti with a San Marzano tomato sauce garnished with fresh herbs. It's impressive when a chef can bring four shellfish together on one plate and have all of them perfectly cooked. Note: Trattoria offers this dish in a lighter option utilizing white wine and reduced stock… this might offer good pacing among the red sauces.

Course 4: Pesce Aqua Pazza

We're on fish number nine here, but the whole meal has been remarkably well-balanced, so you'll be ready for this fresh scrod simmered with tomato sauce. The light, flaky fish met the vinegar punch of capers and kalamata olives with the assurance of a generation's old meal. A baby spinach accompanies. The result is a delight.

La Vigilia is offered for $39.95 per person every night 5pm-10pm through Friday, December 23, at Trattoria Roma, 310 Atwells, Providence. For reservations, call 331-5000. Many dishes in the meal are also available to go, which might be a lovely way to make your Christmas Eve both traditional and delicious.

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