Five Things: Canfield House, Newport

Five Things: Canfield House, Newport

After emerging from a snow-induced hibernation, Sean DeBobes headed to The Canfield House in Newport in search of his shadow and some great eats. There may or may not be six more weeks of winter, but here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. History.

Richard Canfield was a turn-of-the-century PT Barnum - the ringmaster in this classic Victorian house that featured a restaurant, a bar, an invitation-only casino for the nation's elite and of course, a brothel. One step through the doors and you're back in time. Original woodwork, William Morris wallpaper, high vaulted ceilings, servant call buttons on the walls and a working roulette wheel are all original to the house. Slide into the comfortable bar, order a vintage cocktail and ask owner Maggie Wiggins to tell you all about the painting above the bar. Rumor has it that it features real Newporters of the day and it was super scandalous!

Two. Apps. Apps. Apps.

We aren't talking smart phones here, people, we're talking two words: comfort and creativity. On the appetizer menu chef Edie Banky playfully switches between the comfort of your favorite LL Bean sweater, (lobster mac and cheese anyone?) and a new Marc Jacobs cashmere (fried calamari with wasabi aoli crema and sweet soy ginger glaze) and does it with a deft touch that you will witness throughout the menu. Especially

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impressive is the restraint she shows with the steamed edamame. Simply steamed and topped with large sea salt flakes, they remind us that sometimes a chef's ego can keep great fresh ingredients from shining through... but not here.

Three. Seafood.

I know, I know, everyone in Newport has great, impeccably fresh seafood. It's what chef Edie does with it that makes it memorable. Start with the oysters Canfield - bubbly and warm with spinach, shitake mushrooms, feta cheese and crispy crumbs, all topped with a perfect lemon buerre blanc. So good! Another favorite is the seafood alfredo. I don't normally go for cheese with my seafood because many chefs use too heavy a hand. But here the lightly-poached native lobster, scallops and shrimp are tossed with caramelized onions and sun dried tomatoes and linguine in a light Parmesan sauce and it's perfectly balanced. Make sure the waiter gives you plenty of bread to sop up all that tastiness. The wild mushroom ravioli with Gorgonzola fondue and fried spinach was a miss for me, but the the non-sea-foodies at the table loved its richness.

Four. Root Beer Braised Short Ribs.

That's right, say it again with me, root beer braised short ribs. The most amazing thing about chef Edie's short ribs is that she manages to walk that fine line between sweet and too sweet... and leaves you wondering

why you haven't been cooking everything in root beer for years. Tender and falling off the bone, the root beer imparts a sweet glaze without overpowering the taste of the meat (and if you didn't know, you'd never guess root beer was the culprit). Chef Edie pairs the ribs with roasted root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips, which lessens the guilt a bit.

Five. Have a heart.

After dinner we bellied up to the bar for one last martini, and overheard the bartender telling another couple that Canfield House is a huge supporter of the culinary scholarship program at Rogers High School. Once a year the restaurant brings out the actual gaming tables that Richard Canfield used more than 110 years ago and holds a fundraiser. Chef Banky serves a sit-down dinner and afterwards guests - many decked out in vintage attire - play blackjack and roulette and sip cocktails through the evening, all to benefit Rogers. Check it out later this year--I know I will be there!
 
Would I go back? Absolutely! I'm already jonesing for some more of those root beer short ribs.
 
Hit "Save:" 5 Memorial Blvd, Newport, 847-0416. Open for dinner Mon-Thur., Sun 5-9 and Fri and Sat 5-10.

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