Five Things: The Loft at NYLO, Warwick

Five Things: The Loft at NYLO, Warwick

The reopening of Warwick's NYLO Hotel after the ravages of last year's flood was a happy one. But how is the food at the loft-style hotel's restaurant, The Loft? Sean DeBobes headed down to check. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. The Bucket List Manhattan

I have been so happy to see white whiskey making the rounds this year on all the informed cocktail lists. NYLO jumped in with what I would call the perfect beginner’s Manhattan. Death’s Door white whiskey was blended with dry vermouth and maraschino syrup before being garnished with a blood orange bitters soaked orange slice. This great mixture was sweet and flavorful with pronounced orange notes. The white whiskey ensures that this great cocktail is not too fierce to frighten off clear spirit drinkers.

Two. Grilled Pizza

The now-famous-Rhode-Island-invention has a new player in town…  and it’s quite the challenger.  Perfectly grilled pizza dough received a treatment of slightly spicy marinara. Topped off with charred onions, spicy pepper rings, salty capicola and tender fontina cheese, this new contender must be sampled by grilled pizza aficionados state-wide.

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Three. The Look

It's just lovely seeing the NYLO back in business, and once again, the Pontiac Mill complex has never looked so chic. This renovated space filled with seashells, eccentric furniture and dominating cement columns feels a bit hip for the suburbs… but that may be part of the charm.

Four. Salmon

A standout of the night came by way of the pan-seared Atlantic salmon.  While I already have a penchant for oily fish, this was reaffirmed with NYLO’s delivery of a perfect crispy crust. This plate had serious flavor. A rich black bean cassoulet and a charred poblano pepper puree provided a dynamic and smoky profile to this fish.

Five. Lemon Zabaione

NYLO prepares this classic Italian dessert with a strong lemon flavor. Thankfully this citrus custard was paired exquisitely with toasted walnuts and unflavored mascarpone that helped to balance this dessert into a dish that any Kogel Mogel could be jealous of.

Would I go back? Yes. This interesting space demands I come back for an after work cocktail and appetizer…  at least.

Hit “Save” NYLO Hotel, The Loft. 400 Knight St. Warwick. 734-4460. 6am-10am, Noon-Midnight 7 days a week.

Follow Sean's reviews and get behind-the-scenes postings on Facebook, here.