Five Things: Pizzico, Providence

Five Things: Pizzico, Providence

Ever since Fabrizzio Iannucci opened Pizzico on the East Side of Providence, the neighborhood spot has remained a popular go-to for locals for nearly 20 years. Is the loyalty warranted? Sean DeBobes settled in for pasta and more. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Calamari Pizzico.

I swear, you don’t have to serve calamari with chili sauce and marinara. Not to offend a classic but Pizzico may have the next evolution with this eponymous squid sensation. A simple service of crispy calamari was tossed with roasted pine nuts and a lemon aioli. The aioli had a vibrant fresh lemon flavor with a real great zing. The texture was superb and I really appreciated the additional crunch and flavor that the pine nuts brought to the party.

Two. Pasta Course.

The Sacchetti di Cappasanta had me at “stuffed with prosciutto." This seldom seen pasta that resembles a boiled wonton far more than ravioli was also stuffed with an intensely flavored provolone cheese. The sharp and complex flavors of this stuffing paired masterfully with a sage and pine nut cream sauce. This dish was a real treat. I will leave one criticism for the chef on this one. The dish seemed fragmented by the addition of scallops - they didn’t elevate the dish. (Then again if someone puts a perfectly seared scallop on your plate… don’t ask too many questions.)

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Three. Main Event.

My entrée - a fillet of sole coated in a horseradish-pistachio crust before a trip into the frying pan - was a surprise. I say surprise because I presumed that the addition of horseradish would have put this fish into the spicy zone. The pistachio nuts provided just the counterbalance and rendered the sole extraordinarily sweet. That is no dig. I really enjoyed this plate. My dining buddy ordered the Funghi con Vitello (veal with wild mushrooms), served in an enjoyable mustard-brandy-cream sauce that was just a little spicy but with a concentrated mustard flavor. This tender morsel was also a great addition to the table.  

Four. Poor Potatoes.

Next time I will order a side of pasta. Both entrees came served with roasted red potatoes that left me longing for something else. I found the roots undercooked and under-seasoned. They retained too much starchy flavor and lent little to either dish.

Five. The Fierce Gelato.

While continuing my inadvertent campaign to include nuts in every course I found myself ordering the pistachio gelato. The “thinner”/denser cousin to ice cream was a great ending to my meal. Procured from Cold Fusion Gelato of Newport, these gelato devotees know their stuff. I particularly enjoyed the use of ground pistachios as to not interrupt the creamy texture.

Would I go back? Yes, quite a few gems on this menu await my indulgence.

Hit “Save”: Pizzico Ristorante, 762 Hope St, Providence, 421-4114. Mon-Thurs  11:30am-9pm, Fri 11:30am-10pm, Sat 5-10pm, Sun til 9p. Reservations encouraged.