Five Things: Safari Room at OceanCliff, Newport

Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Five Things: Safari Room at OceanCliff, Newport

Fitzgerald with a splash of Hemingway: OceanCliff's Safari Room
With the ongoing culinary innovation in Newport proper, it's easy to forget the outposts. But voyager Sean DeBobes had his eye on the fall menu at OceanCliff's Safari Room, and took a trip mansionward. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Adirondack chairs.

It may be getting a bit chilly in Rhode Island, but that is no reason to give up on outdoor cocktails. I arrived early for my dinner reservation to make sure I had time to sit in one of the back-lawn Adirondack chairs that overlook the water. This picturesque cliff-side location with its views of fishing vessels and giant crashing waves will fast remove any worries that may have built up throughout your day.

Two. Savoy Daisy

Speaking of cocktails, I was so happy to see this little known class of classic cocktail on the menu. Cockburn’s ruby port, Diplomatico Reserva Exlusiva rum, 8 year Bacardi, and lemon juice combined with splash, a dash, and a slice of grenadine, sugar and orange. I love the sweet and rich personality that the port lends to this mix. If that is not your scene ask the bar about the newly born rum club featuring over forty rums for sipping and savoring. Whisky drinkers should take a night off and try this ever-widening class of sipping liquors.

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Three. Playful apps

Whiskey-lovers, think again: Rum, rum, and more rum
Within the lavish estate at OceanCliff lies a more playful juxtaposition. Elegant table settings cohabit with mounted game and beach reeds in the safari room. Though the service and caliber of the dishes suggests another well-refined (often over-defined) Newport experience, the appetizers themselves are… well... a bit fun. The Peking duck confit was a favorite of mine. Shredded duck was tossed in hoisin sauce and served alongside scallion pancakes and pickles. This was a great tactile-dish, borrowing assorted textures from its various elements. The sweet and savory dish was a unexpected and brilliant.

Four. Fall scallops

Every season I reenlist as my favorite flavor. Perhaps distance makes the heart grow fonder, but I was delighted to see serious fall flavors on the Safari Room’s menu. A large portion of seared jumbo scallops crowned grilled squash and a salad of shaved fennel and capers. The perfect sear of the scallops combined with wonderful fresh fennel notes to make a truly wonderful dish.

Five. Quirky must-have desserts

The gracious welcome
The OceanCliff caught my attention with some unique desserts. The bananas ‘Foster’ strudel reimagined the classic with white chocolate and banana wrapped inside a butter phyllo dough. This crispy creation was topped with a rum-caramel and French vanilla ice cream. I challenge any confection lover to put their spoon down around this one.

Would I go back? Yes. The beautiful views combined with the expert food will surely have me swinging back by the Safari Room at the OceanCliff.

Hit “Save” The Safari Room at the OceanCliff, 65 Ridge Rd, Newport, 841-9968.

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