Five Things: Scampi, Portsmouth

Five Things: Scampi, Portsmouth

One of Sean DeBobes's favorite things to do is scout high-season spots for finds during the off-season. This week he ventured to the "quiet side" of Aquidneck to check in at Portsmouth's Scampi Restaurant. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Memorable soups.

I hadn’t planned on ordering a soup until my server informed me that they are a house specialty. With that advice I opted for a clam chowder and a lobster bisque for the table. Both bowls were wonderful. The clam chowder in particular was a triumph, stocked with ample clams and potatoes, wonderfully creamy and with a background spice. I really enjoyed this one. The bisque was a real charmer as well, a bit thin but certainly not on flavor. This light-sherry and lobster mix was a perfect specimen.

Two. Stuffie.

I am always so pleased to see a stuffie on a menu. As a non-native Rhode Islander I seize every opportunity to catch up on my quahog consumption. While the flavor of this stuffie was exactly what I had hoped for, buttery with a blend of spices and chourico, the texture left much to be desired. The filling was gummy and ultimately distracted from the flavor too much for me to enjoy the dish.

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Three. Eponymous entrée.

You just can’t go to a place named Scampi without trying one. I opted for a clam variety. This dish has clearly been perfected by the culinary team in Portsmouth. Garlic and sundried tomatoes were sautéed in a mix of first pressed olive oil and butter before combining with white wine. A perfect amount of acid balanced very well with the buttery sauce. This dish was on the soupy side, but I appreciated it as I enjoyed this practiced scampi over angel hair.

Four. Beurre bust.

I’m a sucker for a French sauce. So when I saw the Salmon with citrus beurre blanc I knew I had to try it. The Loire Valley butter blend was delicious - a fun variation on an old classic. The salmon however was a disappointment. The filet was very overdone (think flakey fish from a can). All the sauce in the world couldn’t save this one.

Five. Sweet endings.

Bringing it back old school with a strawberry shortcake was a great end to my meal. Huge slices of spongy yellow cake were fused together with sweet strawberry preserves. Plenty of fresh strawberries and whipped cream topped this sure-fire confection which was a great spring dessert.

Would I go back? Maybe. While I appreciated the nostalgia of it all… the best dish was my soup.  If I am in the area, and hungry, I might stop back.
Hit “Save”: Scampi, 657 Park Ave, Portsmouth, 293-5844. Wed/Thurs/Sun 11am-9pm, Fri/Sat 11am-10pm.

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Photo: Pam Marsden