Five Things: Tini, Providence

Five Things: Tini, Providence

It's the hip offspring of the legendary Al Forno, and recently added full-size dishes to its already-famous small plates. GoLocalProv's Sean DeBobes sidled up to the marble bar and here are the five things he wants you to know.

One.
Not Just Mint: At its core, Tini is a fantastic bar.  All the best libations abound. A long list of venerated concoctions are led by my favorite - the muddled herb category.  Le Bikini Verde, a jumble of basil, cachaça and St. Germaine, is a seasonal sensation. And when bartender Matt Aruda, below, gets his hands on African blue basil, the result is pure artistry. I have tried oh-so-hard to make this one at home… but Aruda trumps me every time.

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Two.
Two if by Sea: When I sat down at Tini this week, I was craving all things aquatic.  I started with a few Umami oysters from Narragansett. Lightly grilled on the half shell and served with a hefty slurp of pepper-butter, these juicy bivalves tasted of the ocean and sent my palate on a frenzied excursion.  For dinner I tried one of Tini’s new “Not So Tini Plates” – a departure from their traditional small plates. A gracefully prepared broiled flounder was seasoned only with lemon, parsley, salt and pepper - a perfect beachside barbeque.

Three.
Simply Spring: Tini holds true to its motto, “simplicity is preferred.” The revolving spring menu follows suit.  I enjoyed a lime custard cup for dessert that behaved more like a soufflé. Creamy on the bottom, grainy in the middle and almost a cake on top, this subtly flavored lime custard was a wonderful, clean end to my meal.

Four.
Don’t Call it Bar Food:  Though the very reasonable prices suggest otherwise, Chef Darius Salko’s creations are anything but standard fare. A Jarlsberg Fonduta with sourdough croutons will, for practically the change in your pocket, surprise you with how delicious a simple dish can be.  If you are up for a fly-by dinner, order the namesake Tini Weenie, a mouth-watering homemade hotdog served with Chow-Chow (carrot, cabbage and onion relish) and a side of “The Fries.” They're the best in town, adorned with hot sauce and garlic mayo. 

 

Five.
Come Early: This 19-seat restaurant fills up fast, and it’s no wonder.  Some of the friendliest barstaff in town craft behind this elevated marble bar and the food has NEVER disappointed me.  Mingle with some of the Trinity troupe, Providence politicians, or a new best friend… just be sure to come to Tini.

Would I go back?  You couldn’t stop me. Tini is a perpetual favorite of me and mine.

Hit “Save”: 200 Washington St, Providence, 383-2400, www.thetini.com, open Tues – Sat 5-10pm, bar open 'til midnight. from 5:00 – 10:00pm.

Photos David Dadekian, Jan Faust Dane.