John Elkhay's Perfect Clam Chowder

John Elkhay's Perfect Clam Chowder

Restaurateur and chef John Elkhay is known for hosting friends at his Great Island home perched between Galilee's Great Salt Pond and the ocean, and all summer long he takes full advantage of the fresh seafood at his doorstep. With an eye on the tides, Elkhay loves to go clamming in the flats just off of Galilee, then spend the afternoon creating a fresh, clam-laden chowder for the evening. It's the perfect weekend celebration of all that is Rhode Island. Invite friends to join in the raking, harvesting, stirring, and spooning. Like many of Elkhay's guests, they won't want to leave.

For a refreshing cocktail accompaniment, copy Elkhay's cooler: chilled champagne poured over lime and ice.

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John Elkhay's Perfect Clam Chowder

Yields about 1 gallon

Ingredients

1 46-ounce can of Snow's Clam Juice
50 cherrystone clams
1 bunch of leeks, white part only, diced and washed thoroughly, drained
3 medium onions, diced
1 cup diced celery
4 ounces of salt pork, rinsed of excessive salt, rind removed, diced fine
6 T butter
6 T all-purpose flour

2 bay leaves
3 sprigs of English (common) thyme
1 1/2 t ground black pepper
16 ounces heavy cream
2 cups potatoes, Yukon Gold or red, peeled and quarter-inch dice

Preparation

Pour half the can of clam juice into a 5-6 quart pan. Bring to boiling and steam 25 cherrystone clams, removing each as it opens. Set clams aside to cool and reserve liquid. Repeat first step with second half of clam juice and other 25 cherrystones.

In a fresh 6-quart pan, cook diced salt pork over medium heat until rendered and brown. Add onions, leaks, and celery, stirring every few minutes until translucent, 6-8 minutes. Add butter, cut into 3-4 pieces, and allow to melt into vegetable blend. Add flour, thyme leaves (picked from stems), bay leaves, and black pepper. Stir to blend well, lower heat to low, and cook until flour is cooked thoroughly, about 4 minutes.

Add reserved clam juice, pouring slowly; do not add sediment that may have settled. Turn heat back to medium, blend with whip until creamy. Simmer approximately 15 minutes, skimming as needed.

Add 16 ounces heavy cream, reduce to low for 5 minutes, remove from heat. While chowder is finishing, cover potatoes with water in a 3-quart pot. Simmer until tender, strain, add to chowder.

Photos David Dadekian