The Cellar: French Finds

The Cellar: French Finds

Last week we tasted the two most popular varietals in Burgundy; Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This week we will be exploring two other varietals also grown in Burgundy, although be it at a much smaller scale, and produce delicious and affordable wines. The red varietal of this week is Gamay, the grape behind the popular light and fruity wines of Burgundy’s southernmost sub-region of Beaujolais. The white varietal of the weeks is called Aligoté and is a grape that produces interesting white wines that are becoming increasingly popular with wine nerds and sommeliers around the world.

2010 Giraudon Bourgogne Aligoté

Grown all over Burgundy but primarily in the sub-region of Mâconnais, Aligoté has long been synonymous with inexpensive and neutral tasting wines. This is changing, however, as more and more winemakes are

beginning to experiment with the grape in the hopes of making more interesting and expressive wines from the underappreciated grape. Besides from making single varietal wines Aligoté is also used in the production of the region’s sparkling wines known locally as ‘Cremant De Bourgogne’.

Aligoté has been growing in Burgundy since the 17th century and was awarded AOC status as early as in 1937. Todays Aligoté plantings are primarily located in high altitude vineyards and account for approximately 6% of the total plantings in Burgundy. Winemakers within the Appellation Bourgogne Aligoté Controlee are allowed to blend up to 15% Chardonnay into their wine. This is often done to soften the key characteristic of Aligoté its tart acidity, which can otherwise be overpowering at times. If you like a crisp, yet tart medium-bodied wine with mineral and citrus notes, the 2010 Aligoté from Marcel Giraudon could be something for you, especially if you are one of those who enjoy trying new things and expand your palate.  

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2009 Domaine des Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) Cote De Brouilly

Beaujolais is the name of a region that covers a 35-mile stretch of vineyards in the southernmost part of Burgundy, as well as the name of the wines that are produced there. Despite being close to one another, the wines

of Beaujolais should not be compared to the rest of the wines from Burgundy, as almost everything is different in Beaujolais including such fundamental things as the climate, the grape varietal grown and the way wines are made. The soft and fruity red grape Gamay is king in Beaujolais and the primary varietal grown. Just like Aligoté, the wines of Beaujolais are currently in the process of recovering from an image problem of sorts. While doing a good job cementing the sub-region name in the consciousness of wine drinkers around the world, some experts say that Beaujolais’ recent decade of commercial success has been a curse as much as a blessing. 

Because if you think that Beaujolais is only cheap, light and fruity wine, made for early consumption, you are sadly mistaken. While it is true that the focus in the Nouveau style (and even in some straight Beaujolais) is on simplicity and fruit-forwardness, another style of Beaujolais exists at the other end of the spectrum. This week’s second feature is such a wine. The 40-acre Domaine des Terres Dorees is owned by winemaker Jean-Paul Brun. His 2009 Cote De Brouilly is a serious wine that has been awarded several 90 plus ratings. Available for around $20, this full-bodied wine is a winner in my book. It displays a lot of savory flavors including dirt, herbs and game alongside tart red and black cherries. This is a complex wine that finishes long with mouthwatering acidity. Try it! 

Enjoy!

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected]. And as always, don’t forget to follow GoLocalProv’s Wine Cellar on Facebook.