The Cellar: Old-World French Classics

The Cellar: Old-World French Classics

American wine consumers like to know what they are drinking and look for varietal descriptions, such as ‘Chardonnay’ and ‘Merlot’, on the label as an indication of style and flavor when buying wine. While writing the names of grape varietals on the bottle might seem like the most natural thing in the world, the reality is that this practice is relatively new and done to make ‘New World’ wine drinkers more comfortable when shopping for wine.

As a European, I am used to deciphering ‘Old World’ wine labels which traditionally only display the name of the producer along side the location where the grapes are grown. One of the reasons understanding these labels is so important is that some of the best wine in the world comes from Europe and that most of these wines are governed by rules that restricts their ability to label their wines. This week we will explore two such wines. These are French wines you wouldn’t know what contained unless you were able to interpret the label. After today my hope is that you will. 

2007 Château Picau-Perna, Appellation Saint Emilion Controlee

The backstory: Some of the best French wines are so-called AOC wines (Appellation d'Origine Controlee). The ‘d'Origine’ is sometimes replaced with the actual origin of the wine, and such as the case with this

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week’s first wine from the AOC ‘Saint-Emilion, a 13,000-acre wine region of Bordeaux. The wines of Saint-Emilion must be made predominantly from Merlot, but also allow Cabernet Franc. This blend typically makes smoother wines that are approachable at an early age. Carmenere and Malbec are also included in the list of varieties permitted in the Saint-Emilion appellation.

The wine: I recommend aerating the 2007 Château Picau-Perna for a couple of hours before tasting it as this wine needs time to open up. Up front, the three things that came to mind were dark fruit, dirt and smoke. This is an interesting old-fashioned Bordeaux; dry and nicely tannic, nothing like the New World, fruit-forward Merlot you might be familiar with. After a few hours it displays delicious dark plum flavors, still on an earthy backdrop. (B)

2009 Barton & Guestier Vouvray

The backstory: This week’s second wine is another French AOC wine, a classic at that. This time the 2009 Barton & Guestier Vouvray from an area of the Loire Valley which is almost exclusively dedicated to Chenin

Blanc. In the Loire Valley Chenin Blanc’s are made with a varying degree of sweetness, but many have a touch of it to accentuate roundness and to balance the acidity that is traditionally characteristic of the grape.

The wine: This is one of those classic off-dry Chenin Blancs and a good example of an entry-level Vouvray. It displays loads of ripe pear and flowers, but is also has quite an amount of acidity and stone fruit mixed with minerality on the finish that lingers for quite a while. This makes for a nicely balanced wine, not overly complex but delicious nonetheless. Great with light desserts and by itself chilled as an aperitif. (B) 

2008 Turnbull Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville, Napa Valley

The pairing: One of the best food and wine pairings I have had so far this year was at Fleming’s Steakhouse & Wine Bar in Providence at a recent wine dinner event featuring wines from Turnbull Wine Cellars. The

pairing, a twist on the classic French Chevre with Sancerre, consisted of a cucumber goat cheese flatbread with baby arugula dressed with Granny Smith apple vinaigrette alongside the 2008 Turnbull Sauvignon Blanc. If you have never had this fabulous goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc pairing, stop reading and run to the market! It is such a simple pairing, one easily replicated in your kitchen. It works perfectly as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvres.

The wine: It is not every day that one is able to find an estate grown Napa Valley wine for under $20. The 2008 Turnbull Sauvignon Blanc is all that - and then some. It is clean, has beautiful extracted fruit (typical for Turnbull wines) along with substantial minerality. It also displays great acidity which, like a good Sauvignon Blanc, cuts through the richness of the goat’s cheese nicely. Aromatically, this is a different style wine than your typical Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand; more fruit and not as green (grassy). The cucumber and apple vinaigrette pushes the pairing over the top. (B+)  

Don’t think you can afford Fleming’s? Check out the current promotion; a 3-course dinner for two for only $125 and pair the 2008 Francis Coppola Diamond Collection, Claret for only $39. 

Enjoy!

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