The Cellar: Summer Sippers

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Critic

The Cellar: Summer Sippers

I love a discovery. And there is certainly one on Park Avenue in Cranston. Since acquiring Capitol Liquors in 2009, owner Tim Casserly has transformed the neighborhood spot into someplace special for beer and wine lover alike. Currently at 600+, the growing wine selection reflects Tim’s own newly discovered passion. This week’s wines feature the increasingly popular varietal Moscatel Bianco, (aka Muscat Blanc) and the semi-sweet style of wine this varietal often makes; a great sipping wine in the hot weather. Tim offers wine tastings every other Friday. Next event is July 8th from 5pm-8pm.

Yellow Tail Moscato

Let’s get something straight. It is not important what you like as long as you known what you are drinking. I respect brands like Yellow Tail for what they are - cheap, easy-drinking and available everywhere. Because the

grapes are sourced from areas the size of entire countries, sometimes from multiple vintages and often subject to massive manipulation, I often find these wines to have very little personality. Especially when compared to vintage wines from a specific village or vineyard where strict rules regulate vineyard and winery practices.

That being said, one of the things big brands are good at is helping push new varietals and expanding palates. Remember the popularity of Merlot, then Pinot and more recently Malbec? Well, recent hype indicates that Moscato is primed to be one of the white grape varietals of the next decade. The fact that companies like Barefoot and Yellow Tail are releasing Moscatos further substantiates the hype. For closer to $5 than $10 these wines are worth trying. Slightly fizzy, the new Yellow Tail Moscato is an easy sipper displaying sweet tropical fruit. As the fizz dies out on the mid-palate the sweetness takes over and it finishes a little cloying and unbalanced.

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2010 Torlasco Moscato d’Asti DOCG

If you would like to step it up a notch and try a more serious example of a Moscato look for wines that say d’Asti after it. The folks at Torlasco, established in 1999, hand-harvest their Moscato grapes from a vineyard in

Canelli, approximately 12 miles south of Asti. After going through the crusher, they chill and ferment the ‘must’ in stainless steel vats almost at the point of freezing which assures freshness. Carbon dioxide is deliberately captured during bottling making the wine ‘frizzante’ (slightly sparkling).

The rules and regulations under which this wine is produced are very different than the previous wine. If you try them side by side you will taste a difference. Despite the fact that it is lighter in alcohol (only 5.5% is allowed within the appellation) this wine has much more body and length. It’s deliciously creamy on the palate displaying complex fruit flavors including those of sweet peach. It finishes with a refreshing candied lime note.

2008 Starling Castle Gewürztraminer

If you like to try new wines but prefer this slightly sweet style of wine, Gewürztraminer might be something for you to try. Not only do they tend to be slightly off-dry, they are also often spicy and deliciously medium-bodied. This weeks last wine is 100% Gewürztraminer

sourced from vineyards in Pfalz, Germany.

At 10.5% alcohol this wine has a little more body to it displaying rich tart orange zest and lime fruit notes, similar to the ones found in a nice preserve. Subtle hints of baked apricots, sweet spice and nice acidity on the mid-palate makes it enjoyable. Unfortunately it finishes slightly bitter.  

Enjoy!! 

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