The Cellar: Two Italian Reds for Special Occasions

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Critic

The Cellar: Two Italian Reds for Special Occasions

Great wines from the beautiful vineyards of Italy's Piedmont region
I am currently traveling in Europe, so over the next couple of weeks "The Cellar" is going to take a different format. In short, I will be writing about the wines I taste in my travels. That means that I may be stepping out of the under-$20 box. As much as I appreciate a great value, there is something to be said about the wines with the big names (albeit matching prices). This week the featured wines are from beautiful regions of Piedmont, the home of some of Italy’s most popular wines, as well as the birthplace of the ‘Kings of Piedmont’, Barolo and Barbaresco.  

Piedmont, meaning foot of the mountain, is located in the northwest part of Italy. While being the biggest region in Italy in terms of overall size the cold weather and steep mountainous terrain severely limits the acreage on which vines can grow. The grapes that are grown however, are of very high quality. In fact, Piedmont produces more quality wine than any other region in Italy; more than 17% of all of Italy’s DOC/DOCG wines (the highest quality level) are from this region. 

The powerful Nebbiolo grape

The only grape allowed in Barolo and Barbaresco wines is Nebbiolo, a grape known for producing powerful and well-structured wines, high in tannin. Nebbiolo is a late-ripening grape which often doesn’t fully mature until late October. The cold conditions in the winery at this time of year have traditionally meant that fermentation would often take months before getting rolling. The increased time the skins would have to be in contact with

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the fermenting must would result in a very tannic wine that often needed a decade or more of bottle aging before becoming soft enough to drink. Coupled with high price tags, these wines were being bypassed more and more as wine lovers started turning towards softer, more fruit-forward wines and wines that wouldn’t break the bank.  

Thankfully today new technology allows winemakers to control the temperature in their tanks. This allows for warmer, quicker and more stable fermentation, which softens the most astringent tannins and produces a softer and more readily drinkable wine.  

2006 Barolo and 2008 Barbaresco

This week’s featured wines are the 2006 Barolo and 2008 Barbaresco, both from Antiche Cantine Dei Marchesi Di Barolo. Located in the town of Barolo, Marchesi Di Barolo winery control approximately 275 acres of vineyards in the region and produces a wide range of wines including Barberas, Dolchettos and Moscato d’Asti. Their Barolo and Barbaresco, however, are among their most prized bottlings.

Both of these wines can age for decades. If opened now they need serious aeration and a solid meat dish to go along with them. The 2008 Barbaresco, matured 1 year in oak and 1 year in bottle before being released, is a medium-plus bodied wine with delicious ripe red fruits flavors along with tobacco flavors. The 2006 Barolo, matured 2 years in oak and 1 year in bottle before being released, is still a baby. It took patience, 5 hours of decanting, before the wine was soft enough to taste. This wine displays a massively complex array of aromas. On the palate this full-bodied wine is filled with liquorice, vanilla and cocoa notes all wrapped in a structured and tannic frame. 

Both of these wines cost around $50. While I know that this is a lot of money, my hope is that one day you will have the opportunity to try one or both of these amazing wines or any other Barolos or Barbacescos for that matter.

Enjoy!

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected]. And as always, don’t forget to follow GoLocalProv’s Wine Cellar on Facebook.

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