Mourning the Loss of the Old Canteen - Joanne Giannini
Joanne Giannini, Guest MINDSETTER™
Mourning the Loss of the Old Canteen - Joanne Giannini
While I am delighted for Sal Marzilli, the owner and head chef, I am troubled by the new owners’ intentions. It is true that all good things must come to an end, but do they have to end in such a manner?
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The Old Canteen holds a special place in my heart, as it was a venue for many cherished memories. Holidays, communions, birthdays, graduations, and other significant events were always celebrated there. I vividly recall the moment I was sworn in as a State Representative in 1995. My family took me to the Old Canteen to celebrate, and Joe Marzilli, the owner, came out at the end of our meal with a magnificent Zuppa Inglese cake adorned with sparklers, singing a heartfelt song. This was Joe Marzilli’s unique way of welcoming you to his restaurant. As he spoke to me, he said, “Joanne, I am so proud of you. An Italian-American woman being elected to office!” Tears still well up in my eyes when I recall that moment.
Every Columbus Day, I would march in the parade, and my entire family would gather there for dinner. We spent many Christmas Eves there, savoring the feast of the seven dishes and enjoying the abundance of food. Luncheons were also a delightful experience, where I would catch up with friends and family.
On numerous occasions, Mayor Buddy Cianci would be seated in a corner, accompanied by a group of individuals engaged in lively conversations. He had his own table there, and Joe Marzilli and he were close friends.
The Old Canteen was not just a restaurant; it was a tradition that brought people together and created unforgettable memories. I hope the new owners will reconsider their decision and preserve this iconic establishment for future generations.
After Joe Marzilli’s passing, his son Sal took over the restaurant, and we were treated to the same exceptional service, delectable food, and warm hospitality. I attended numerous political dinners there, and Sal would always greet me with utmost respect and friendliness.
Sal Marzilli has earned his well-deserved retirement. He has worked tirelessly in the kitchen, even on holidays and weekends when he could have been with his family. It’s time for him to relax and spend quality time with his loved ones.
When news broke a few years ago that Sal was selling the restaurant, I asked him about it. He had hoped to sell at that time and stay on for a year to train the new owners. However, I believe that plan didn’t work out. Selling a restaurant like that is undoubtedly challenging, and it took time. But losing it will be difficult for many of us who have made it an integral part of our lives. It’s one of those places that felt like home.
The Old Canteen remained unchanged over the years. The pink walls, round tables, décor, and the ambiance of being in your grandmother’s dining room were all consistent. The full-course menu, complete with soup, garlic bread, antipasto, main dish, dessert, coffee, and complimentary wandies, was unparalleled in the state.
The loss of the Old Canteen marks the end of an era and the erasure of our Italian heritage. We will all miss it, just like we miss many other fine restaurants that have closed down on Federal Hill, such as Siena and the Blue Grotto.
I hope this is not the beginning of a trend. The culture and diversity of Federal Hill are a testament to the strong foundation laid by the Italian American community.
I still hold onto hope that the new owner will recognize the significance of this historical restaurant and make some changes to honor its legacy and preserve its great Italian culture.
Joanne Giannini is a freelance writer and former State Representative from Providence.