Five Things: Bluefin Grille, Providence

Five Things: Bluefin Grille, Providence

Back from expeditions to NYC and Boston, Sean DeBobes has returned to Rhode Island with ever-greater love for the local dining scene. This week, he follows up on a tip that some creative seafood dishes were appearing at Bluefin Grille at Providence's Marriott. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Poolside Cocktail.

There are two very different bars down on Orms Street. While dining in the Marriott complex I would suggest edging your way over to the poolside bar at Aqua for a pre-dinner sip. The cucumber gimlet with Tanqueray  Rangpur and muddled cucumber was a refreshing spin on a summer favorite of mine. Moving inside, the cocktails get a little... hackneyed. Drinks like the Berry Kiss with champagne had me thinking of a 21st birthday party in 1990 instead of the high-end and assured cocktail I received outside.

Two. The Details.

Extra credit to Bluefin for hitting on a few of my favorite details. I started off with an amuse-bouche of diced watermelon and chicken that was fresh and flavorful. The bread basket became instantly flamboyant with the addition of two house-made butters. A sweet grapefruit & cilantro variety (think ambrosia) and a rich and savory roasted herb version added extra life to a warm roll. At the other end of my evening, chef sent out a plate of miniature mint chocolate cookies. You can always have one more bite, right?

GET THE LATEST BREAKING NEWS HERE -- SIGN UP FOR GOLOCAL FREE DAILY EBLAST

Three. Pan Chowder.

For many Rhode Islanders, chowdah is a religious experience. Well, line up for the conversion. Chef Melissa Puglia quickly assembled a soup that I will be coveting for some time. Littleneck clams were lightly steamed and allowed to stay very tender. Sliced fingerling potatoes and celery provided the hearty texture I crave in chowder while smoked mussels, the all-star of this dish, elevated the creamy mix beyond the competition. If you are a chowder lover you need to try this.

Four. Scallops.

The Bluefin is an underrepresented gem in the seafood world. I would put the George’s Bank Scallops up against any waterside restaurant’s rendition any day. Chef perches crispy seared scallops atop a pedestal of lobster and corn pudding. This was one of those sides that begs to be the main. This rich creation had a soufflé-like texture and was finished with charred yellow tomato vinaigrette. Talk about flavor, I was blown away by this robust acidic addition.

Five. Grilled Cake.

Angel Food, that is. Sweet elation! Bluefin has really delivered a great dessert with this one. Lightly grilled slabs of angel food cake are joined by roasted peaches that have soaked in simple syrup. The hearty flavor of the peaches complement beautifully the light scorch of the cake. When topped with the almost requisite whipped cream, this dish sings.

Would I go back? Yes. Chowder and charred vinaigrette… who wants to join me?

Hit “Save” Bluefin Grille in the Marriott Hotel. 1 Orms Street, Providence. 272-2400. Open Sunday- Thursday until 11pm, Midnight on Friday and Saturday. Reservations may be needed, call ahead.