Five Things: La Laiterie, Providence

Five Things: La Laiterie, Providence

It all began with cheese, when Matt and Kate Jennings opened the first Farmstead cheese shop in Providence's Wayland Square. La Laiterie at Farmstead, the culinary extension of their passion for cheese, meats, pastry, and good bar stock, has taken its place among Providence's go-to bistros. Sean DeBobes checked in to see how the summer's fare was faring. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Cheese Shop.

You just can’t go to La Laiterie without ordering a cheese plate. The restaurant sits next door to the cheese shop that spawned it, and is stocked with an anthology of creamy-veined-raw-nutty and generally astonishing offerings. I started with a three-cheese board from the "bloomy, sweet and salty" category. These mongers know their stuff. The cheeses, boarded one by one, were cow, sheep and goat. Accoutrements included La Laiterie's now-famous herbed-candied nuts, raw honey, and rhubarb-strawberry jam. The cheeses were delicious and the accompaniments were masterful (although a bit overpowering).

Two. First-Class Flight.

Simply coming in for some cheese and a flight of wine is a great idea and a great deal. At $12 for three wines you can’t go wrong with this one. The wine list is packed with an extensive array of favorites as well as quite a few off-the-beaten-path options. Order a few selections from the charcuterie menu and you’ve got yourself a great meal!

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Three. Raw Food Flop.

One of the small plates I ordered was just not working for me. The menu stated: “Avocado, shaved mushroom, parmigiano, lemon, olive oil,” and that is all it was. I know they spelled it out for me, but I was hoping for a little seasoning or maybe a marinated mushroom. And speaking of mushrooms... they tasted and looked much like underwhelming white buttons. I am so glad the raw food movement missed Rhode Island, because this raw food was certainly a miss for me.

Four. Oh So Rich.

I think I could live on foie gras and sweetbreads for the rest of my life, or at least until the atherosclerosis sets in. The wild-flower honey glazed sweetbreads were remarkable. Complemented by caramelized fennel and sorrel puree, this dish was sweet, tangy and truly resonant. The sorrel provided that faint sour-kiwi taste that no other aromatic can endow. Then came the foie gras. Talk about oral decadence. The brilliantly singed exterior gave way to that buttery, meaty core that only fatty liver can bestow.

Five. Duck!

My entree of roasted Moulard duck was outstanding. The duck breast was cooked perfectly and set atop a mass of smoked kale. Far too many folks think the more the merrier in the smoke department, but this whisper of smoke was exactly right. Enough to accent without overpowering the rest of the dish. Chanterelle mushrooms and a duck jus completed this flavorsome feast.

Would I go back? Yes. Remember, fromage is addictive, chevre is a gateway… but no worries. La Laiterie has what you need.

Hit Save: 184-188 Wayland Ave, Providence, 274-7177, open 5pm Tues-Sat, reservations for parties of 6 or more, www.farmsteadinc.com