Five Things: Red Stripe, Providence

Five Things: Red Stripe, Providence

With Brown parents coming into town, Red Stripe in Providence's Wayland Square overflows with visitors who rave about the frites, moules, and cozy bistro ambience. Was the neighborhood favorite keeping up its standards? Sean DeBobes paid a visit. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Staff of renown.

Red Stripe is a busy bistro, but nothing makes you feel like settling in a center-room table like a fabulous server. Jesse reminded me of how friendliness and efficiency, when combined in just the right measure, make a restaurant feel instantly special. And can I say the woman knows how to recommend a cocktail? She pointed me toward the Jimmy Hendricks, featuring the eponymous gin, cilantro, simple syrup, plus lime and grapefruit juices, with an effervescent champagne float. Bitter, sweet, refreshing.

Two. Staff of life.

There's a lot of good bread in Providence, but nobody rocks a hunk of tart, fresh sourdough like Bristol Bakery, and

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Red Stripe offers it in abundance. If you're here, as many are, for the well-known mussels, this bread is made for sopping. Just try not to overindulge before your apps.

Three. Vegetarian love.

It's one thing to offer some fierce salads (which Red Stripe does), and omelettes as mains (very bistro, don't forget), but it takes a forward-thinking chef to offer serious vegetarian mains, including a dense, tempura-fried tofu "steak" infused with intense, smoky flavors (leaning toward too smoky). The accompanying salad, dressed with dried cranberries, toasted almonds, and a sesame vinaigrette, was sweet, light, and made the plate balance just right.

Four. Shepherd's Pie.

Call me Heidi, but I do love this hearty, rustic dish and the execution here makes it special indeed. Chunks of near-shredded duck confit nestled in a cabernet demi-glaze, dotted with peas and corn, and were topped by Red Stripe's famous garlic mashed potatoes.

Five. Fall flavors.

Leaves ablaze in the neighborhood, and my favorite flavors on the table. Let's start with sage adorning a walnut and goat cheese ravioli starter, fried to a crispy sheen in brown butter. (Is brown butter an official fall flavor? it should be.)

And at meal's end, a banana tarte tatin came warm with cinnamon-raisin ice cream. The bananas were caramelized just enough, and a bold use of cinnamon kept this fireside-worthy dessert right on the line.

Would I go back? Yes. And when you scan the ample bistro-style menu and realize that only two main dishes out of 40 or so are more than $20, this is truly a great value.

Hit "Save": Red Stripe, 465 Angell St, Providence 437-6950, Mon-Thurs 11:30am-10pm, Fri-Sat til 11pm, Sun 10am-10pm. Reservations encouraged.

Photos: Ricky Chapman for Public Image Photography