The Cellar: Pouilly-Fumé—the other Sauvignon Blanc
Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer
The Cellar: Pouilly-Fumé—the other Sauvignon Blanc
Many of you will associate the Sauvignon Blanc grape with the pungent and zesty wines from Marlborough, New Zealand. This is no surprise as brands such as Cloudy Bay, Kim Crawford and Oyster Bay have done a tremendous job at getting us American wine lovers hooked on this lighter and grassier style of Sauvignon Blanc. While I don’t have anything bad to say about this very attractive NZ style, I would like to take this opportunity to talk about another place that also produces great Sauvignon Blanc – a very different, perhaps more serious style - that is well-worth seeking out: the wines from the French region of Pouilly-Fumé.
Pouilly-Fumé is located in the eastern part of the Loire Valley, directly across the river from its more famous brother Sancerre. The wines that bear the name ‘Pouilly-Fumé’ are always Sauvignon Blancs (put that in your memory bank). The appellation covers 7 smaller towns and a total of 2840 acres of vineyards (for comparison Napa Valley has more than 43.000 acres under vine). Thankfully the wines are only named after the region’s main village (Pouilly-sur-Loire) while Fumé refers to the local name for Sauvignon Blanc (Blanc Fumé).
If you like Sauvignon Blanc and can’t remember ever having sampled a Pouilly-Fumé (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fuissé which is the name of a Burgundian Chardonnay) I suggest you head down to your local wine merchant and ask for one. One great Pouilly-Fumé that is distributed in our area is the one made by Guy Saget. I recently featured one of their Vouvrays (Chenin Blanc) at the Providence Wine Academy and people absolutely loved it! The Saget family has been making wine since 1790 and has expanded their holdings throughout the Loire Valley as their company has grown. Today Guy Saget has Estates in all the major sub-regions, including Pouilly-Fumé.
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After fermentation the wine is aged on the lees for approximately 6-7 months with occasional pump-overs to mix everything around. After bottling the wine is kept an additional 6 months to come together. One of the things that make this Pouilly-Fumé (and most Pouilly-Fumés) stylistically different from its counterparts from New Zealand is not only the weight that comes with lengthy lees aging, but the level of concentrated fruit and the pronounced flinty minerality. In Pouilly-Fumé yields must be kept extremely low. Low yields usually makes more concentrated wines as an acre of land with five-hundred, 20 cluster vines produces more concentrated fruit than an acre planted with fifteen-hundred plants each supporting 40 clusters of grapes. Makes sense?
The 2010 Pouilly-Fumé from Saget is absolutely delicious – and really well-made. Upfront there is delicious citrus and apple fruit, followed by the signature flinty minerality on the mid-palate. On the finish the ever-present acidic nerve washes over your palate leaving you with lingering pineapple and lemons.
Cheers!
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.
10 New England Wine Getaways
Newport Vineyards
Newport Vineyards is the perfect Rhode Island destination for wine lovers year round. Visit the winery this weekend for tastings and tours, featuring an array of award winning wines.
909 E Main Road, Middletown, RI. (401) 848-5161.
Carolyn's Sakonnet Vineya
Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton is much more than just a winery—it is a place to get away from the stresses of life and indulge your senses, a place to try new things, a place to focus on you. The vineyard is open every day, and invites you to come for a tasting and tour. Try their Petite Red, Vidal Blanc, and many more of their distinctive wines.
162 W Main Road, Little Compton, RI. (401) 635-8486.
Greenvale Vineyards
Visit Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth to sample their estate grown and produced wine, made in small batches. While at the estate, try seven different wines and keep the wine glass for only $12. While you are tasting, take in the gorgeous views of both the vineyard and river. Besides tasting the wines, Greenvale also invites customers to tour the winery and learn about the history and process of winemaking at the vineyard.
582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth, RI. (401) 847-3777.
Maugle Sierra Vineyards
For a trip to a vineyard that includes much more than just wine, hop over the border to Ledyard, CT, to check out Maugle Sierra Vineyards. The vineyard hosts live music on Fridays and Sundays to compliment your wine tasting experience. Pack a dinner or light fare and enjoy a tasting session in the Sierra Room while you take in the sunset.
825 Colonel Ledyard Highway, Ledyard, CT. (860) 464-2987.
Nickle Creek Vineyards
Nickle Creek Vineyard is a family owned and operated Rhode Island wine treasure. The winery, located in Foster, makes it their mission to handcraft the most unique, high quality wines in the business. All wines are created in small batches, giving them a distinctly unique taste. This weekend, visit their tasting room to try their variety of wines. On your way out, be sure to pick up a bottle of Foster Nights to get you through those chilly New England evenings.
12 King Road, Foster, RI. (401) 369-3694.
Nashoba Valley Winery
Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!
100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.
Bishop’s Orchards Winery
The wines from Bishop’s Orchards Winery and Farm Market in Guilford, CT, have won over 179 medals since the winery opened in 2005. The tasting room at Bishop’s is open seven days a week year round, so no time is off-limits for wine tasting. Head over on the weekend to enjoy a winery tour pre or post tasting session. While visiting the winery, also be sure to check out the market for fresh baked goodies.
1355 Boston Post Road, Guilford, CT. (203) 453-2338.
Diamond Hill Vineyards
For a cool twist on classic wine labels, look no further than Diamond Hill Vineyard in Cumberland. At Diamond Hill, you can get custom designed wine labels perfect for any occasion. If you’re interested in tasting the wines, visit their elegant tasting room for samples of their high quality wines such as Cranberry Apple, Estate Pinot Noir, or Blackberry.
3145 Diamond Hill Road, Cumberland, RI. (401) 333-2751.
Westport Rivers
Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery
Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.
417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.
Travessia Winery
Found on the southern Massachusetts coast about 30 minutes outside of Providence, is Travessia Winery in New Bedford. This micro-winery puts a twist on traditional wine culture with its cool urban flair. Travessia is open for sales and tastings Wednesday-Sunday, and invites customers to come in and enjoy their unique variety of wines.
760 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA. (774) 929-6534.
