Ahead of 100th Birthday, Narragansett Elder Spears Celebrates a Century of Food & Family

Rachel Nunes, Contributor

Ahead of 100th Birthday, Narragansett Elder Spears Celebrates a Century of Food & Family

Eleanor Spears Dove
In her nearly 100 years of life, Eleanor Spears Dove has been a model for a sculpture displayed at the world’s fair, received national recognition for her cooking, and spent the decades being a mother and grandmother to all she encounters.

Dove is best known for her role at her restaurant, Dovecrest, which, with her family, she ran for decades, earning her a reputation as well as several awards. Her cooking became known through New York Times and Providence Journal reviews praising her raccoon pot pie and her signature dish, johnnycakes. Write-ups in several books led to visitors coming in from all 50 states and dozens of countries.

When Dove was born on August 1, 1918, President Woodrow Wilson still sat in the Oval Office. World War I would not end for a little more than three more months. Women’s suffrage would not come until after Dove’s second birthday.

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As a child, Dove was raised on Sutton Avenue in East Providence. Though she was a child of the Depression, Dove’s family always had plenty of food thanks to their large garden.

“[The Depression] didn’t affect me too much,” she said with a smile. “We always had plenty of food, though maybe we all would have enjoyed a little more meat.”

By the mid-1930s, Dove was a beautiful young woman working as a waitress at the Providence Art Club. There, she caught the attention of a local sculptor at the Rhode Island School of Design who used her as a model for a sculpture that was later displayed at the 1939 World’s Fair.

Meeting Ferris Dove

In 1937, Dove’s life changed forever when she attended a dance with her cousin and an aunt who were close to their age.

“We walked in, and I said ‘I’ll take the tall one,’” she said, laughing. “And I did.”

“The tall one” was Ferris Dove, who would become her husband just a year later. He was a graduate of Bacone Indian College in Oklahoma would become the War Chief of the Narragansetts. He worked to maintain peace through communication with Rhode Island and national politicians, she said. Ferris also served as the area’s first and only Native American Postmaster and Tax Assessor, as well as head of the Rhode Island Liquor Commission.

As a young couple, Eleanor and Ferris worked as caretakers for a variety of properties, including the Chemawockee Lodge in Charlestown, the Westerly Yacht Club, and the Ninigret Lodge, and as caterers.

Dovecrest
Dovecrest restaurant officially opened its doors in 1963 and quickly became a popular Rhode Island spot. Though she served Native American classics and comfort food like succotash, Indian pudding, and seafood, Dove really made a name for herself through her johnnycakes, even earning a medal for them from the Culinary Hall of Fame.

Her recipes were far from ordinary, and included elk, buffalo, and raccoon. A 1981 review in the New York Times raved about her cuisine and helped pave the way for other write-ups in travel and food books.

The New York Times wrote in a column titled, "Cusine as American as Racoon Pie,"  -- ROARING BULL, war chief of the Narragansett Indian tribe, has not been in a particularly bellicose mood lately. Things have been relatively peaceful around this southern Rhode Island hamlet for some time. In fact, the only weapon the chief has picked up has been a shellfish knife, which he wields with deadly precision while shucking chowder clams at the restaurant he owns with his wife, Pretty Flower.

''That's his job every Friday,'' his wife said, while preparing lunch recently. ''He does that faster than anybody I've seen.'' Briny fresh clam chowder is just one of the specialties at Dovecrest, one of the few restaurants in New England owned and operated by American Indians. Other entrees on a given day might include buffalo steak, buffalo pot pie, quahog pie, venison steak and pies, johnnycakes, rabbit stew, succotash and even, during Indian festivals, raccoon pie.

Throughout her life, staying true to and passing on her Narragansett culture has been a major part of Dove’s life. As a young girl, she remembers going with her grandparents to powwows.

“It was very exciting,” she said. “You got to see family you never did the rest of the year. My favorite part was always the dancing. I wasn’t the biggest then so I could squeeze up through the crowd to see. I don’t think I missed a single one.”

Her memories have a beautiful symmetry to her granddaughter Loren’s, who recalls being taken by Dove and her husband when she was young.

“It’s important that I passed down the traditions to my daughters,” Dove said. “Otherwise, they wouldn’t be passing them down to their daughters today.”

Dove Today

These days, Dove is hardly content to sit still and bide her time. Since she had to give up her beloved cooking several years ago after losing some of the feeling in her hands, Dove passes the time by reading, going out with children and grandchildren, and playing cards.

She ascribes her longevity to the “good genes,” as well as a lifetime of eating plenty of vegetables and the occasional glass of wine.

When asked what her favorite thing to do is, she had only one word as a reply: “go.”

“I’m certainly happy I’m still here,” Dove added. “I hope to stay for at least a few more years.”


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