Five Things: Nick's On Broadway, Providence

Five Things: Nick's On Broadway, Providence

It's long known that Derek Wagner has cornered the market on breakfast and brunch, from his original hole in-the-wall-diner to his expanded space (which is about to expand again) on Broadway in Providence's West End. But what food lovers really talk about is what Wagner does at dinnertime. Is Nick's on Broadway more than just the best breakfast place ever created? Sean DeBobes pulled up to Wagner's bright red counter on a recent evening to find out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Evolution of Flavor.

Chef Derek Wagner is simply a culinary bad-ass. Every recipe is well developed, every plate is skillfully executed. The first and last bite of each dish tasted completely different, and it was so much fun. I quickly learned that you must taste the entire plate together to get the vision, so grab a fork-full, let the flavors develop, and enjoy.

Two. Fabulously... Unpretentious.

Don’t let the chic décor fool you; Nick’s is about flavor and fun. (I have never had a better meal served with a paper napkin.) The service staff was tremendously knowledgeable and eager to provide suggestions on plates and pairings.

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Three. Some Seafood Starters.

I had two incredible appetizers. The first, a butter roasted native sea scallop was cooked to a perfect blonde crunch. Served with golden raisins and assorted citrus segments that brought out incredible natural undertones in the scallop,

this was a refreshing and delicious spin on a seasonal favorite in RI. Next up, a native oyster (above) served on the half shell with lemon, parsley and a caper gremolata. The oysters were plump and flavorful; the addition of chopped caper berries in the gremolata added wonderful bitter/zesty notes.

Four. Sweet Carrot Puree.

Accompaniments should accent, not overpower. However, I do have to say that the carrot puree that was served with the herb-grilled duck (left) stands alone as a fantastic sauce. I might start carrying a vat of this puree along with me wherever I go. Swirling with the contrasting anise jus heightened this dish even further. This was a wonderfully developed flavor profile.

Five. Start & Finish.

The bookends of a meal are so important, and Wagner truly understands the need to focus on these elements. In one bite, an amuse-bouche of olive bread with mascarpone, mint and paper-thin slices of cherry tomato had me hooked. Any chef who dedicates so much consideration to a one-ounce morsel has my attention. Finishing my meal with a lavender and black pepper panna cotta (right) was stimulating for the eyes and the taste buds. This beautiful plate was decoratively dotted with a spiced red wine reduction and local honey.  While I found this plating heading toward the precious, this dessert was outstanding to look at and taste.

Would I go back? Yes. Head down Broadway for dinner sometime. If you have only been to Nick’s for brunch you are missing out on a truly memorable stop on the culinary road map.

Hit Save: 500 Broadway, Providence, 421-0286, http://nicksonbroadway.com. Breakfast & Lunch Wed-Sat 7-3, Sun 8-3. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-10.

Photos: Interior Nat Rea, Oysters/Duck/Panna Cotta David Dadekian, Exterior Kristin Conte