Five Things: Pane E Vino, Providence
DINING REVIEW by Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic
Five Things: Pane E Vino, Providence
Pane e Vino, a popular Federal Hill restaurant, recently revamped its menu. What better time than a chilly winter night to check in and see what's new and how it's working? Sean DeBobes did just that, and here are the five things he wants you to know.
Pane e Vino’s house version of the classic mussels in broth was a triumph. Mussels, spicy sopressatta and Collina tomatoes mingled in a fennel and seafood broth, which had a wonderful fish flavor accented by the miniature chunks of spicy salami. Collina tomatoes provided an herbaceous background flavor for these perfectly cooked tender mussels.
Two. Blood Orange Vinaigrette.
The star of the fennel salad was born in the blood orange vinaigrette. Roasted-shaved fennel and wild rucola (arugula) meet a hefty shaving of grana padana before being dressed. The aromatic fennel, bitter greens and salty cheese were all wonderfully balanced by the sweet and sour taste of this citrus dressing.
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I’ll start with the better of the bunch. The roasted duck confit over ravioli was sweet and elegant. A toasted walnut and mascarpone cream sauce coated the fig-stuffed ravioli, providing a tasty base for the crispy l’anatra. The dish was a bit on the sweet side, but I usually crave a sweet finish on a confit of duck. Unfortunately the other entrée didn’t quite deliver… and it was mostly because of the delivery. A classic Saltimbocca Alla Sorrentina had a great flavor. The veal was lined with prosciutto and sage before Narragansett Creamery mozzarella was melted over it. The real issue for me was that the veal as well as the side (candied pancetta mashed potatoes) were both served in the same casserole dish. I know some people like to mix their food a bit, but red sauce and mashed potatoes should be kept separate in my recipe book.
Four. Pacing.
I was certainly not rushed out the door at Pane e Vino, in fact I thought I would have to stay the night. From seating to check was just under three hours. It’s nice to have a relaxing meal but every course ended with empty plates in front of me for 20 minutes. I don’t want to feel like I have to orchestrate the waiter at dinner. Next time I’ll say I have theater tickets.
I found a wonderful end to my meal in the golden raisin bread pudding - a study in exquisite combinations of textures. A custardy center gave way to a very crisp surface that had been briefly broiled. Topped off with a simple but delicious whipped cream and a truly wonderful caramel sauce with hints of vanilla in the caramel elevated the usually simple sauce. Lovely.
Would I go back? Yes. I have always heard such wonderful things about this iconic Providence spot. I was a little disappointed at times. High notes make me want to return but I hope to be a little more impressed on the next round.
Hit “Save”: Pane e Vino, 365 Atwells Ave, Providence, Rhode Island, 223-2230. Open evenings at 5pm (Sundays 4pm) Reservations recommended.
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