Five Things: Bacaro, Providence

Five Things: Bacaro, Providence

As Rhode Island's thoughts turn to winter menus, Sean DeBobes knew it was time to revisit chef Brian Kingsford's creations at the always-excellent Bacaro on Providence's South Main Street. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Sushi or salami?

Just like when you're at your favorite sushi joint, when you are seated at Bacaro you will be given a paper scroll of imported cheeses, meats and hot and cold tapas. Start with a classic like Prosciutto di Parma but be sure to venture out into the world of Speck or Finocchiona. These mini grilled cheeses with prosciutto are addictive. Create a serious starter board by adding a serious cheese. Try a Taleggio or a Robiolo. I'd come back for just this adventure alone.

Two. Perfect pizza

Working at Al Forno for 18 years will certainly teach you a few things... a thin-crust oven-grilled pizza being one. Chef Kingsford starts with a San Marzano tomato puree and branches out into several delicious varieties from

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there. I tried a seasonal favorite with the roasted pumpkin and spicy oil: from the hand-formed crust to a positively creamy puree... this dish delivered the minute I took a bite and that spicy oil hit me. The rest was beautiful payoff.

Three. Pasta or risotto

Bacaro is known for its rustic pasta bakes. Fired to a crusty carmelized perfection in a shallow clay dish, the baked pastas (like most everything on the menu here) change with the seasons. Rigatoni with Veal Bolognese is about as comforting as comfort food gets. The Bolognese tastes like it has been simmering for hours and is sure to please the most discriminating palates. If you are more rice than pasta try one of Bacaro's famous risotto dishes. Alert: there is delicious fusion going on this season - coriander and curry blend with garlic sausage and chicken in chef's risotto to meet a savory end. 

Four. Farm to table

Lots of restaurants pay lip service to the trend that continues to rule American cuisine, but Chef Kingsford leads the pack at farm-to-table with his chef-in-the-garden philosophy. Each morning you can find him at Confreda Farms in Cranston, planting or harvesting a fresh crop of corn or greens for Bacaro’s menu that night. The result: every meal at Bacaro has that fresh feel that's impossible to duplicate any other way.

Five. Combination sensibility

Chef’s ability to blend flavors and ingredients creatively is admirable. Simply try the expertly braised veal cheeks with creamy polenta and you will be convinced. This thoughtful dish is served with house-pickled sweet baby carrots. Scrumptious.

Would I go back?: Oh yes, and I do. The prices at Bacaro are steep, make no mistake, but if you've got the budget, this is food worth the price.

Hit "Save": Bacaro, 262 Water St, Providence, 751-3700. Open Tues-Fri  5-10pm, Sat 5-10. Reservations recommended.