Five Things: Parkside Rotisserie & Bar, Providence

Five Things: Parkside Rotisserie & Bar, Providence

It's a magnet for crowds migrating from downtown as well as the East Side... not to mention a centerpiece of WaterFire nights. Is Parkside Rotisserie & Bar making its way out of the summer season with culinary certainty? Sean DeBobes strolled South Main Street to check in. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Hey Libation.

The Parkside has an extensive wine list, many by the bottle and many by the glass. I however, was lured by the luscious cocktail selection. While it appeared from the menu that many of the cocktails would veer far into the “way too sweet” side, the two I sampled were balanced and well designed. Bartender Michael Breault's quirky Gem cocktail was certainly a pleasant departure from the everyday cocktail offerings at other restaurants; Bombay Sapphire shaken with Banana and Hazelnut liqueur and finished with a sugared-coriander rim was reminiscent of a dessert drink, but it was also subdued enough to have before dinner (if you like it sweet).  For the folks who just can’t say goodbye to summer yet, try The Fountain, Absolut Berry Acai blended with soda and muddled blueberries. Think adult lemonade…  it was a bit bitter but very refreshing.

Two. Cassoulet.

The clam and mussel cassoulet was called an appetizer, but it was practically a meal in itself. A generous portion of littlenecks and mussels were stewed with a very savory sausage in a

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fennel and tomato broth. The bean of choice, white northern, gave a great creamy texture that bound together this pleasantly seasoned stew. Topped off with a chunk of crostini slathered with smashed roasted garlic, this dish cannot be beat, particularly at $11. (Warning, however: this is not for the garlic squeamish; be sure your date has a bite of this or you may be getting your own tables shortly).

Three. Entertaining Appetizers.

Parkside certainly knows how to put out a menu that you won’t see everywhere. The Kobe beef & lobster slider really brought this home. A tender, juicy burger of flavorful Kobe beef, adorned with Roma tomato and arugula, sat atop a buttered piece of brioche. The Maine lobster claw plated next to the burger was a bit dry, perhaps having been cooked and cooled a little too long before service, but an oil infusion of sweet tarragon, lemon and garlic that coated both items tied the dish together. Another great appetizer dubbed The Colossal Thai Dumpling held true to its namesake. Four huge wontons were filled with pork, tamari and ginger and fried to a wonderful crunch. I greatly enjoyed the dueling sauces - orange/ginger and chipotle/spicy mustard - marrying for flavor and heat.

Four. Dinner.

It would almost be irresponsible to come to the Parkside and not order something from the rotisserie menu. The Parkside garners much of its fame from beautifully cooked offerings that come off the spit. I opted for the chicken marinated in lemon zest, roasted garlic, tamari and ginger.

Topped with roasted cashews that provided just a hint of smoky flavor, this texture and brilliant cookery is exactly what you think of when you want a great piece of chicken. The bird nested on a pile of sweet and russet fries. Definitely enough for two, do not let this wonderful dish miss your check.

Five. Come Early... Stay for Dessert.

I thought I was beating the crowds arriving at 5:30 on a Tuesday; I barely did. Be sure to arrive early to the Parkside. By 6:30 every table was filled and the bar was bustling. As a first time diner I wasn’t sure what to expect…  expect a crowd. Of course don’t let the crowd frighten you away before dessert. I enjoyed a simple but elegant crepe filled with chocolate mousse. Topped by a mix of berries and a healthy (or not so healthy) dose of whipped cream, this sweet treat was a great end to my night.

Would I go back? Yes, and next time I am ordering a Rotisserie plate to go to make the best chicken salad around.

Hit “Save”  Parkside Rotisserie & Bar. 76 S Main St, Providence, 331-0003. Reservations STRONGLY recommended. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-10pm,  Fri 11:30am – 11pm, Sat 5-11pm,  Sun 4-9pm. Lunch menu weekdays until 4pm.