Five Things: Temple, Providence

Five Things: Temple, Providence

The historic Masonic-Temple-turned-Renaissance-Hotel in Providence changed chefs recently at its eponymous restaurant, and roaming culinarian Sean DeBobes thought it was time to stop eating seafood on waterfronts and check in on things under David Cardell's watch. Here are the Five Things he wants you to know.

One. Polish, Please.

Temple has a lot of great ideas…  but they need a little more polish. When the waitress brought out a dish of oil with rosemary floating on top and an entire bulb of roasted garlic for my bread I was instantly ready to dig in. It fell short however, when the bread was undercooked and the oil wasn’t allowed sufficient time to infuse. I appreciate the aesthetics of the rosemary, but I would rather taste it. My blood orange cosmo, for example, was delicious and looked great, but it was garnished with a slice of plain orange when it should have been the crimson fleshed variety…  dinner is in the details.

Two. Fleur de Marseille.

This great summer cocktail with sparkling wine, lavender and St. Germain had me hooked. Fruity, bubbly and oh-so-refreshing; it was a perfect, graceful balance of elderflower and lavender. And while I think that St. Germain had its moment on the main stage last summer I was happy to see it one more time before it is banished to the liquor cabinet for a few years. While I’m talking about adult beverages… after dinner I had a wonderful Limonstillo (Greek style Limoncello) with saffron. Served over crushed ice, this was a great digestif with saffron providing a fun twist.

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Three. Over the Top…  Fun.

The décor in Temple is certainly something unique. The lighting is dramatic  - hanging crosses covered with candles provide a relaxing luminance; while the grand stairs usher you down into what can only be termed Masonic elegance. The lounge off the bar keeps pace; intense with iconography, but still fun and whimsical. This is a great space to hang out in and wait for a table (or as a destination by itself).

Four. Tasting Trio.

Stacked with honey yogurt panna cotta, olive oil cake, and a truffle tart, this dessert was a monumental end to my meal. The tart was finished with sea salt roasted pistachios that provided a great saline finish. The orange marmalade crème fraiche was just divine… sour/sweet/creamy divinity.

Five. Order Shrimp.

Shrimp should be a food group at Temple. A farro and vegetable salad with a skewer of grilled shrimp was such a great summer dish. A little sweet and a little spicy, it reminded me of a hearty, large-grained tabouleh. The second, a gratin of shrimp with aged feta, was wonderful. A simple dish done right, a little oregano, a lot of feta, baked with a great tomato sauce and served with grilled crostini – this one was a taste bud pleaser.

Would I go back? Yes, that lounge is calling me, and it’s saying order dessert.
Hit “save”: Temple, 120 Francis St,  Providence, 919-5050. Reservations encouraged on weekends. Dinner and cocktails nightly.