The Cellar: Try Something New – Try Lagrein

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer

The Cellar: Try Something New – Try Lagrein

This week we will be featuring two wines made from a grape variety called Lagrein. While relatively new to our local wine markets, wines made from Lagrein are by no stretch ‘new’ in southern Europe. In fact, these richly flavored and deeply colored red wines have been produced for more than 500 years. The following are reviews of two delicious, locally available examples.

Recent advances with DNA mapping have enabled scientists to pinpoint Lagrein’s exact origins. Historically both the Greeks and the Italians have claimed the grape their own. While the Greeks argued that the grape was named after the ancient city of Lagaria, the Italians insisted that the grape was native to north of their country - more specifically the region of Trentino-Alto Adige and the town of Val Lagarina. After having determined that the grape variety Teroldego is one of Lagrein’s parents it is safe to say that the grape variety is in fact native to Italy’s Alpine northwest.

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More than 95% of all Lagrein based wines are produced in Italy; either under the ‘Trentino’ or the ‘Alto-Adige’ appellations with very small amounts of Lagrein being vinified outside of Italy. The grape is not easy to grow. It is very temperamental and sensitive to climatic changes. This sometimes leads to an irregular crop, meaning a wine made from grapes of varying ripeness. While wine nerds love this added complexity, others might be turned off by the pronounced acidity and /or harsh, bordering astringent, tannic structure. In recent years winemakers have begun to address these irregularities with increased care at harvest and increased use of oak aging. Lagrein are almost full-bodied wines with plenty of fruit ranging from red to blue and dark purple depending on the growing season.

Both of this week’s featured wines are from the 13.000 acre Alto-Adige appellation. This week’s first example is the readily available $17ish 2013 Lagrein from Elena Walch. The grapes are sourced from a couple different vineyards in towns of Tramin and Caldaro which are located 6 miles apart. After having been blended together the wine underwent alcoholic fermentation inside stainless steel tanks. Then wine was then transferred to large 2500+ gallon, 100+ year old oak vats where the wine matured for more than a year. The Elena Walch is the fresher, juicier example boasting an almost ‘sweet and sour’ like fruit profile with noticeable but soft tannins and a spicy rusticity on the finish that lingers for quite a while.

At $35 per bottle, on the other hand, the 2012 Lagrein from Franz Hass is more deeply colored. It is also more full-bodied with richer, darker fruits and bigger – not harsher - tannins. This wine is extremely soft for its variety – a real ‘new world’ example. The grapes were de-stemmed prior to being pressed and pump-overs during maceration was limited – all to prevent too many tannins to be imparted into the wine. After fermentation the wine was then aged in oak barrels for 15 months. Hass’ Lagrein has a broader and richer dark fruit profile, yet it shares Walch’s finishing spicy rusticity  - a characteristic that is very typical of this variety.

While noticeably different, both wines are absolutely delicious - fantastic by themselves but particularly good with food. Pinot Noir lovers might really love the elegance and freshness of the Walch, while Cabernet lovers will appreciate the richness and full-bodiedness of the Hass. Two great wines.

Cheers,

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.

10 New England Wine Getaways

Newport Vineyards

Newport Vineyards is the perfect Rhode Island destination for wine lovers year round. Visit the winery this weekend for tastings and tours, featuring an array of award winning wines.

909 E Main Road, Middletown, RI. (401) 848-5161.

Carolyn's Sakonnet Vineya

Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton is much more than just a winery—it is a place to get away from the stresses of life and indulge your senses, a place to try new things, a place to focus on you. The vineyard is open every day, and invites you to come for a tasting and tour. Try their Petite Red, Vidal Blanc, and many more of their distinctive wines.

162 W Main Road, Little Compton, RI. (401) 635-8486.

Greenvale Vineyards

Visit Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth to sample their estate grown and produced wine, made in small batches. While at the estate, try seven different wines and keep the wine glass for only $12. While you are tasting, take in the gorgeous views of both the vineyard and river. Besides tasting the wines, Greenvale also invites customers to tour the winery and learn about the history and process of winemaking at the vineyard.

582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth, RI. (401) 847-3777.

Maugle Sierra Vineyards

For a trip to a vineyard that includes much more than just wine, hop over the border to Ledyard, CT, to check out Maugle Sierra Vineyards. The vineyard hosts live music on Fridays and Sundays to compliment your wine tasting experience. Pack a dinner or light fare and enjoy a tasting session in the Sierra Room while you take in the sunset.

825 Colonel Ledyard Highway, Ledyard, CT. (860) 464-2987.

Nickle Creek Vineyards

Nickle Creek Vineyard is a family owned and operated Rhode Island wine treasure. The winery, located in Foster, makes it their mission to handcraft the most unique, high quality wines in the business. All wines are created in small batches, giving them a distinctly unique taste. This weekend, visit their tasting room to try their variety of wines. On your way out, be sure to pick up a bottle of Foster Nights to get you through those chilly New England evenings.

12 King Road, Foster, RI. (401) 369-3694.

Nashoba Valley Winery

Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!

100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.

Bishop’s Orchards Winery

The wines from Bishop’s Orchards Winery and Farm Market in Guilford, CT, have won over 179 medals since the winery opened in 2005. The tasting room at Bishop’s is open seven days a week year round, so no time is off-limits for wine tasting. Head over on the weekend to enjoy a winery tour pre or post tasting session. While visiting the winery, also be sure to check out the market for fresh baked goodies.

1355 Boston Post Road, Guilford, CT. (203) 453-2338.

Diamond Hill Vineyards

For a cool twist on classic wine labels, look no further than Diamond Hill Vineyard in Cumberland. At Diamond Hill, you can get custom designed wine labels perfect for any occasion. If you’re interested in tasting the wines, visit their elegant tasting room for samples of their high quality wines such as Cranberry Apple, Estate Pinot Noir, or Blackberry.

3145 Diamond Hill Road, Cumberland, RI. (401) 333-2751.

Westport Rivers

Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery

Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.

417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.

Travessia Winery

Found on the southern Massachusetts coast about 30 minutes outside of Providence, is Travessia Winery in New Bedford. This micro-winery puts a twist on traditional wine culture with its cool urban flair. Travessia is open for sales and tastings Wednesday-Sunday, and invites customers to come in and enjoy their unique variety of wines.

760 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA. (774) 929-6534.

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