Five Things: New Rivers, Providence

Five Things: New Rivers, Providence

The stalwart restaurant, New Rivers, has been pleasing diners for decades. Now that Chef Beau Vestal has become Chef/Owner it was time for Sean DeBobes to head towards Steeple Street and try a taste of summer. Here are the five things he wants you to know.

One. Simple Starts.

When I am dining in the summer, I am always looking for something that seems simple but is robust and flavorful and uses plenty of freshly grown local ingredients. Chef Beau Vestal prepared two starters that were all about summer and the transformation of a simple ingredient into a mouthwatering dish. The chilled soup of Early Girl tomatoes from Four Town Farm certainly hits this mark. The beautiful pumpkin color, the smooth texture and the straightforward seasoning of basil oil and cracked black pepper all assured that this cup of pure tomato essence was memorable. Also from Four Town, chef grilled sweet corn and left an adequate but reserved char on the kernel. A spicy chili butter electrified this course into a celebration of summer.

Two. Burrata.

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This cheese course was a true treat. The house made Burrata (fresh mozzarella with a creamy liquid center) was expertly made. The silky inner texture was so exquisite it barely needed anything else to complete the plate. Of course, that didn’t stop chef from really elevating the plate with the addition of poached tomatoes and peaches with basil, mint, and arugula. This definite crowd pleaser was something I’ll be craving for some time.

Three. A New Fish Fritter.

In a state where clam is king in the fish fritter, Vestal goes with striped bass. This Rhode Island redux was a welcomed change from the classic. The more flavorful state fish added a rich sea taste to the tender fritter. The kitchen pairs this fried dish with a tangy and refreshing salsa verde and for a little decadence, thinly sliced lardo. This pork addition has me rethinking every fritter I’ve ever had.

Four. Pasta & Sausage.

My favorite dish of the night came by way of house made Orecchiette. The pasta was great to begin with but really shined while playing vessel to a host of wonderful flavors.

Grilled corn and blistered cherry tomatoes provided a fresh flavor and helped create an instant sauce when you sliced into the tomato. Chef created a smoked pork Jagerwurst that was phenomenal and had hints of nutmeg and ginger. The whole affair was topped off with toasted pine nuts creating a real cornucopia of flavors. If this is on the menu, it is a must have.

Five. Terrine.

After tasting the Jagerwurst I was eager to try a bit more from the charcuterie menu. The kitchen did not disappoint with my last taste of the evening, a chicken and walnut terrine. As I saw throughout the dinner, the main component was wonderful. A mouth-watering and very rich terrine still played star of the show. Following a pattern though, chef masterfully pairs the star with an ensemble of flavors that help to raise the entire experience. Marinated cucumber and watermelon transform the flavor into an instant summer experience. The addition of simple, but interesting corn Parker House rolls rounded out the dish to a wonderful finish.

Hit “Save”: New Rivers. 7 Steeple St. Providence. 401.751.0350. newriversrestaurant.com

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