The Cellar: Eastern European Merlot?

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer

The Cellar: Eastern European Merlot?

This week’s featured wines are both Merlots. What makes these Merlots interesting and unusual, however, is where they are from – Macedonia & Moldova. Both countries are relative newcomers to the international wine scene bringing with them a slew of interesting and unique wines, some made from classic grape varieties, others made from more unusual endogenous ones.  

Alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot is one of the most widely planted fine red grape varieties in the world. While the quality of the crop and eventual wine depends heavily on the quality of the soil, the climate and how the vineyard is worked, several things make Merlot universally well-liked. It is pretty easy to grow; it grows in most climates, it grows relatively vigorously and the vine is naturally high yielding. On top of this Merlot is generally thought of as producing smooth, rounded and ‘easy drinking’ wines. The main reasons for this is that the Merlot grapes ripens earlier than, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon, and therefore almost always fully ripens; in cooler regions as well as in more moderate ones. The Merlot grape has thin skins, which result is wines with lower acidity, less tannins and wines with dark and rich fruit profiles. 

Macedonia 

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This week’s first Merlot is made by Bovin Winery, which was among the first privately build wineries in Macedonia. The company was established in 1998 producing a whopping 120.000 bottles during their first year in business. Their output has since grown to over 1 million bottles annually with grapes sourced from Estate vineyards, as well as outside growers. While classic grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are prominently featured in a lot of their wines, so are the indigenous grapes Vranec  and Dissan.

Bovin owns approximately 150 acres of farmland in the Tikvesh wine region with its vineyards situated near the town of Lepovo just 3.5 miles from the Bovin winery. Roughly 27 acres are devoted to growing Merlot whose lots sit at approximately 1150 feet. The 2009 Bovin Merlot ‘Barrique’ is made from selected vines of the southwestern slopes of Lepovo. After fermentation the wine then aged in Macedonian oak barrels for 12 months. The resulting wine is really special as 5 years of bottle-age has left its mark. This is not your Californian fruit bomb. This is a savory experience with herbs and dark fruit undertones. The wine has exceptional length and best enjoyed with gamey foods – I loved this wine with roasted lamb.

Moldova

Surprisingly, the tiny country of Moldova ranks among the most important wine producing nations in Eastern Europe. Its climate is well suited to growing grapes with producers making quality wines from most of the classic varieties including Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot and Chardonnay. The history of Moldovan wine is very interesting as archaeological evidence suggesting primitive winemaking dates back millions of years. More recently, Russian Imperial rule saw viticulture flourish while Islamic Ottoman rule almost caused its demise.

As if the origins of this wine didn’t make it unusual enough, this Merlot was made using winemaking techniques emulating those of an Amarone, using late harvested (partially dried) Merlot grapes. The resulting wine is very interesting. While not as long as the Bovin, it does exhibit delicious dark fruits, but also a healthy dose of acidity. Once again there are a lot of savory undertones of herbs and vegetables in this wine making it a very unusual treat. 

If you love to try new and exciting things these Merlot are right down your alley. Cheers!

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related questions or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy. 

10 New England Wine Getaways

Newport Vineyards

Newport Vineyards is the perfect Rhode Island destination for wine lovers year round. Visit the winery this weekend for tastings and tours, featuring an array of award winning wines.

909 E Main Road, Middletown, RI. (401) 848-5161.

Carolyn's Sakonnet Vineya

Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton is much more than just a winery—it is a place to get away from the stresses of life and indulge your senses, a place to try new things, a place to focus on you. The vineyard is open every day, and invites you to come for a tasting and tour. Try their Petite Red, Vidal Blanc, and many more of their distinctive wines.

162 W Main Road, Little Compton, RI. (401) 635-8486.

Greenvale Vineyards

Visit Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth to sample their estate grown and produced wine, made in small batches. While at the estate, try seven different wines and keep the wine glass for only $12. While you are tasting, take in the gorgeous views of both the vineyard and river. Besides tasting the wines, Greenvale also invites customers to tour the winery and learn about the history and process of winemaking at the vineyard.

582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth, RI. (401) 847-3777.

Maugle Sierra Vineyards

For a trip to a vineyard that includes much more than just wine, hop over the border to Ledyard, CT, to check out Maugle Sierra Vineyards. The vineyard hosts live music on Fridays and Sundays to compliment your wine tasting experience. Pack a dinner or light fare and enjoy a tasting session in the Sierra Room while you take in the sunset.

825 Colonel Ledyard Highway, Ledyard, CT. (860) 464-2987.

Nickle Creek Vineyards

Nickle Creek Vineyard is a family owned and operated Rhode Island wine treasure. The winery, located in Foster, makes it their mission to handcraft the most unique, high quality wines in the business. All wines are created in small batches, giving them a distinctly unique taste. This weekend, visit their tasting room to try their variety of wines. On your way out, be sure to pick up a bottle of Foster Nights to get you through those chilly New England evenings.

12 King Road, Foster, RI. (401) 369-3694.

Nashoba Valley Winery

Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!

100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.

Bishop’s Orchards Winery

The wines from Bishop’s Orchards Winery and Farm Market in Guilford, CT, have won over 179 medals since the winery opened in 2005. The tasting room at Bishop’s is open seven days a week year round, so no time is off-limits for wine tasting. Head over on the weekend to enjoy a winery tour pre or post tasting session. While visiting the winery, also be sure to check out the market for fresh baked goodies.

1355 Boston Post Road, Guilford, CT. (203) 453-2338.

Diamond Hill Vineyards

For a cool twist on classic wine labels, look no further than Diamond Hill Vineyard in Cumberland. At Diamond Hill, you can get custom designed wine labels perfect for any occasion. If you’re interested in tasting the wines, visit their elegant tasting room for samples of their high quality wines such as Cranberry Apple, Estate Pinot Noir, or Blackberry.

3145 Diamond Hill Road, Cumberland, RI. (401) 333-2751.

Westport Rivers

Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery

Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.

417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.

Travessia Winery

Found on the southern Massachusetts coast about 30 minutes outside of Providence, is Travessia Winery in New Bedford. This micro-winery puts a twist on traditional wine culture with its cool urban flair. Travessia is open for sales and tastings Wednesday-Sunday, and invites customers to come in and enjoy their unique variety of wines.

760 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA. (774) 929-6534.

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