The Cellar: Amarone Della Valpolicella
Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer
The Cellar: Amarone Della Valpolicella
Amarone wines are made exclusively in Veneto's westernmost Valpolicella region. The grape varieties that make this classic blend are the indigenous Corvina and its sub-variety Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara. However what makes the Amarone truly special is what happens after the harvest, as the grapes are spread out on shelves and left to dehydrate in temperature and humidity controlled rooms. This drying process, called appassimento in Italian, causes the water inside the grapes to evaporate thereby intensifying the flavors and concentrating the natural sugars. After a lengthy maceration period the grapes are then pressed and the juice fermented into alcohol. The result is a densely flavored and super complex wine. If you’ve never tasted an Amarone I highly recommend you seek one out. Look for a bottle with some age on it (2004-2010) as well-made Amarones usually need a few years in the bottle to come together.
Amarones has always been a popular wine in Europe. However in the past 10-20 years Amarone has experienced an increased demand worldwide as new wine lovers (especially in the U.S. and China) have discovered these great, age-worthy wines. The increased demand has had two consequences that you as a potential Amarone consumer should be aware of. First of all, as could be expected, the prices of the most sought-after Amarones have skyrocketed. In some cases to price points mirroring those of top-notch Burgundies and classified Bordeaux. On the other end of the spectrum a new ($30-$40) category of Amarone has been born. While some of these wines are absolutely delicious and thereby excellent values, many of them are not and the often large-scale producers behind these wines are ‘cutting corners’, i.e. using less than desirable vineyards sites, blending grapes from across the region, messing with the drying and fermentation process and meeting only the absolute minimum aging requirements for making Amarone.
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Their 2009 Amarone was made from 40% Corvina, 40% Corvinone and 20% Rondinella, all hand-harvested from decades old estate vines. The grapes then underwent 120 days of appassimento before being pressed off and left to macerate for 25 days. After fermentation the wine was aged for 30 months in oversized French oak barrels called 'tonneaux' and an additional 8 months in the bottle prior to being released.
An additional few years in bottle has resulted in an absolutely stunning wine; big and bold, yet velvety tannins make for a soft and smooth mouthfeel. One thing I didn’t mention in the introduction is a savory minerality that many Amarones display – the Fumanelli is no exception. The fruit is a delicious blend of super ripe and slightly tart making for a very complex impression. Dried figs and hints of sweet vanilla finishes this monster of a wine. Good stuff! This is a wine that drinks perfectly today, but will age gracefully and turn increasingly savory in the next decade.
Cheers,
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related questions or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy.
10 New England Wine Getaways
Newport Vineyards
Newport Vineyards is the perfect Rhode Island destination for wine lovers year round. Visit the winery this weekend for tastings and tours, featuring an array of award winning wines.
909 E Main Road, Middletown, RI. (401) 848-5161.
Carolyn's Sakonnet Vineya
Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton is much more than just a winery—it is a place to get away from the stresses of life and indulge your senses, a place to try new things, a place to focus on you. The vineyard is open every day, and invites you to come for a tasting and tour. Try their Petite Red, Vidal Blanc, and many more of their distinctive wines.
162 W Main Road, Little Compton, RI. (401) 635-8486.
Greenvale Vineyards
Visit Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth to sample their estate grown and produced wine, made in small batches. While at the estate, try seven different wines and keep the wine glass for only $12. While you are tasting, take in the gorgeous views of both the vineyard and river. Besides tasting the wines, Greenvale also invites customers to tour the winery and learn about the history and process of winemaking at the vineyard.
582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth, RI. (401) 847-3777.
Maugle Sierra Vineyards
For a trip to a vineyard that includes much more than just wine, hop over the border to Ledyard, CT, to check out Maugle Sierra Vineyards. The vineyard hosts live music on Fridays and Sundays to compliment your wine tasting experience. Pack a dinner or light fare and enjoy a tasting session in the Sierra Room while you take in the sunset.
825 Colonel Ledyard Highway, Ledyard, CT. (860) 464-2987.
Nickle Creek Vineyards
Nickle Creek Vineyard is a family owned and operated Rhode Island wine treasure. The winery, located in Foster, makes it their mission to handcraft the most unique, high quality wines in the business. All wines are created in small batches, giving them a distinctly unique taste. This weekend, visit their tasting room to try their variety of wines. On your way out, be sure to pick up a bottle of Foster Nights to get you through those chilly New England evenings.
12 King Road, Foster, RI. (401) 369-3694.
Nashoba Valley Winery
Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!
100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.
Bishop’s Orchards Winery
The wines from Bishop’s Orchards Winery and Farm Market in Guilford, CT, have won over 179 medals since the winery opened in 2005. The tasting room at Bishop’s is open seven days a week year round, so no time is off-limits for wine tasting. Head over on the weekend to enjoy a winery tour pre or post tasting session. While visiting the winery, also be sure to check out the market for fresh baked goodies.
1355 Boston Post Road, Guilford, CT. (203) 453-2338.
Diamond Hill Vineyards
For a cool twist on classic wine labels, look no further than Diamond Hill Vineyard in Cumberland. At Diamond Hill, you can get custom designed wine labels perfect for any occasion. If you’re interested in tasting the wines, visit their elegant tasting room for samples of their high quality wines such as Cranberry Apple, Estate Pinot Noir, or Blackberry.
3145 Diamond Hill Road, Cumberland, RI. (401) 333-2751.
Westport Rivers
Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery
Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.
417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.
Travessia Winery
Found on the southern Massachusetts coast about 30 minutes outside of Providence, is Travessia Winery in New Bedford. This micro-winery puts a twist on traditional wine culture with its cool urban flair. Travessia is open for sales and tastings Wednesday-Sunday, and invites customers to come in and enjoy their unique variety of wines.
760 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA. (774) 929-6534.
