The Cellar: The Next New Thing?

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer

The Cellar: The Next New Thing?

Sommeliers are always looking for the next ‘new grape varietal’. One the grapes currently on the radar is the dark-skinned Vranec grape native to south-eastern Europe. In the up-and-coming international wine producing nations of Macedonia and Croatia Vranec plantings are on the rise, while in Montenegro Vranec already accounts for more than half of all plantings. Why is Vranec so popular? Simply put, winemakers love Vranec because of its high yields and easy-to-work-with structure, while we consumers like it because it is something new, moderately priced and extremely flavorful. 

While the flavors of the finished wine obviously depend of the particular vintage, ripeness of the harvested grapes as well as the treatment the wine receives inside the winery it is fair to make the following generalizations: ripe Vranec produces densely flavored and deeply colored wines with a dark flavor profile – think blackberries and cherries with mocha/coffee. With oak treatment the wine gains additional complexity. Vranec is sometimes compared to Zinfandel, but as I first mentioned in an article three years ago Vranec’s structure is often more refined and defined with pronounced acidity and tannins.

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This week’s featured example from Stobi Winery is no exception. The wine, the 2011 Vranec Veritas, is a 100% Vranec made from grapes sourced from Macedonia’s most famous wine region of Tikves. The wine spent 2 years in oak of which 80% were large 1000 liter Slovenian oak casks while the remaining were the more common 225 liter oak barrels. The resulting wine is one I think a lot of people will enjoy. While full-bodied and fruit-forward this is in no way a ‘fruit bomb’. There is so much else going on including bright acidity and savory notes featuring hints of herbs, leather and tobacco. Overall, the wine covers all the bases: it is tasty, complex, balanced and inexpensive. As a wine nerd I am already looking forward to tasting the next Vranec I can get my hands on. 

Cheers, 

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy.


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